The Glen-L Blog Has a New Home!

This current “home” is just too darn small, so we’ve moved over to the Glen-L site! Please click here to join us there!

–Gayle

Top 10 Glen-L Designs for 2009

Building a boat as a hobby is alive and well! In spite of current economic times, people are still building boats. They may not be laying down huge sums of moolah for a brand spankin’ new boat, but the desire to create a boat with ones own two hands is more popular than it’s ever been.

We thought it would be fun to show you the 10 most popular Glen-L designs for 2009. The winners are based on the number of plans & patterns sold. The photos shown below are those I just choose, they weren’t necessarily built in 2009. And the winners are… drum roll please:

#10 Monaco - 19′ Classic Inboard Mahogany Runabout

#9 TNT - An 11′ Runabout

#8 Super Spartan - 10′ Hydroplane

 

#7 Imp - 10′ Flat Bottom Rowboat

#6 Cracker Box - A 15′ Inboard Speedster

#5 Flats Flyer - An 18-1/2′ Florida Flats Boat

#4 Power-Row Skiff

#3 Malahini - Classic 16′ Runabout

#2 Zip - A 14′ Classic Runabout

**WINNER** #1 Squirt - 10′ Runabout

So…. which one are you going to build for 2010???

Boat Builder WebLetter

Our most recent WebLetter has been published. There are some great articles from builders, an article from our founder Glen about prep work prior to fiberglassing–don’t miss this one.  A beautiful “Boatbuilder of the Month” feature,  plus there are lots of builder submitted photos.

I never tire of reading builders articles and comments about their boats. It’s also fasciniting to hear how the boat is used.  How awesome it is to have Glen-L boats built all over the world and adding to people’s lives in so many various ways… be sure and read WebLetter 121…

A Novel Way to Determine Cost to Build a Boat

One of the members of the Glen-L Boat Builder Forum posted his method for planning a budget for building his boat. He is building the Cuddy Sport which is a 24 foot Sportfisher. This thread was started by a boat builder who just launched his Cuddy Sport.

Anyway, the idea for figuring a budget is a novel one and he has a good idea for getting free information for various systems for your boat. The post is by “galamb” on page 3, but you can read the whole thread about “ET’s”  boat launch on our Forum. Enjoy…

Build Your Dream Boat #23

I need your help! One of the most asked questions here at Glen-L is “how much does it cost to build the (enter boat name)?”

We’ve never been big on giving folks prices to build our boats because the cost of materials varies so much depending on your location and since we sell our plans all over the world, that can be a considerable difference. However, we are very aware that cost is a major factor for many building a boat, especially in our current economy.

It’s true that many save 40% to 50% if they build their own boat and we provide a bill of materials online for all of our designs so that you can estimate costs. But it would be really nice if we could add an approximate cost to build each design to our website. That’s where you come in…

If you’ve built a Glen-L boat, could you just shoot me a quick email and let me know the name of the boat and what it cost you to build it. Specify if you are including the motor in that cost or not and any other information you think might help potential builders. If you have an estimate of the time it took you, that would be great too.

I think that would be a nice addition to the Glen-L online catalog and would help our fellow builders. Thank you for doing this for us… we sure appreciate it. We’ll be adding your figures to our Cost & Time to Build listing as we get them, so be sure an bookmark the page so you can come back to it frequently.

Glen-L Word of the Week: FLOOR TIMBER A scab that joins two-part bottom frames at the centerline.

Build Your Dream Boat #22

You’ve probably noticed that Glen-L provides a whole lot of free information on our website. We literally have thousands of pages online–we discovered that when we were looking for a new hosting company a while back! So, in that same spirit of giving, we have done some free Teleseminars.

So far we have had six Teleseminars. These are seminars offered by telephone or online. The first was an interview of Tahoe 19 builder Bill Edmundson. Bill discussed blow-by-blow the building of his beautiful Cold Molded mahogany runabout.

The second Teleseminar was done by yours truly and was an introduction to building a boat titled “8 Steps to Build the Boat of Your Dreams”, the third was done by Carl Puehl called “How to Wire Your Boat and Install a Hydraulic Steering System”, the fourth was “Building the Glen-L Outrage” with John Wilmot. John used a slide presentation and walked us step-by-step through the building of his 16′ Outrage which is the fourth Glen-L boat he’s built.

The fifth was with Kern Hendricks who is the owner of System Three Resins. He sure had a tremendous amount of information about using epoxy as well as painting. Since Kern is a Chemical Engineer, he really got into the mechanical details of resins and their application. The sixth interview was with Garry Stout who built the Monaco. He went into detail on engine and transmission installation.

We will continue to offer these Teleseminars from time to time. We’ve had some great feedback so far and we’ve set up a page for the replays. We also have some CD’s available of them if you’d prefer to listen in your car or somewhere beside in front of your computer.

When Carl did his seminar on wiring and steering, he provided quite a few resources that took him many, many hours to find. Carl tells me that he wanted top quality products at a good price and these are the suppliers he came up with (books too):

Wiring Resources

Books

Boatowner’s Illustrated Handbook of Wiring by Charlie Wing

Marine Electrical & Electronic Bible by John C. Payne

Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder

Wire & Accessories

Ancor Products -  has a host of products and some of the ABYC standards.

McMaster Carr -  a great source for marine items including connector supplies and SS railings and hinges.

Blue Sea Systems -  Automatic Charge Relay, switches, distribution panels, etc.

Lighting

Alpenglow Lights -  Nice looking lights with mahogany trim, very energy efficient.

Aqua Signal -  West Marine stores carry this line of lighting.

Steering

Vetus -  Hydraulic steering, no feedback piston pump

Federal Regulations

United States Coast Guard - This website has a listing of Federal Regulations. Section 183 pertains to wiring and here is a direct link to the government site.

Tanks

Trionic Corp

Windows

Wynne Enterprises Inc -  Custom windows

 

Glen-L Word of the Week DISPLACEMENT HULL A hull that will not exceed a fixed speed which increases with the length of the hull. Additional power will only allow a hull to maintain hull speed against a head wind or under load.

I hope this helps lead you closer to building the boat of your dreams. Until next time, build more boats… Glen-L boats that is!

Build Your Dream Boat #21

Today we’re going to talk about fiberglassing a wood boat. Many are under the impression that when you apply fiberglass to a wood hull, it makes it structurally stronger and therefore, thinner or less quality wood can be used. This is NOT correct.

First, let’s define what we mean by “fiberglass”. We are referring to the application of fiberglass cloth over a plywood boat which is then impregnated with either epoxy or polyester resin. The purpose of fiberglass is to protect the wood from abrasion and provide an easier surface to maintain. Any strength that comes from fiberglassing is incidental and not meant to replace the proper wood or craftsmanship.

Years ago, polyester was the resin of choice but we never use it, nor do many of you. Epoxy is a superior product, so when we refer to resin in this Newsletter, we’re talking about epoxy resin.

Fiberglassing is an option when you build a plywood boat; it is not required. But, we recommend it simply because it’s easier to maintain a fiberglassed surface than a painted wood surface. Plus, it’s far better to scratch some fiberglass off your boat rather than wood and have to deal with the possible rot that will inevitably happen if unnoticed.

If cost is a factor and the boat will not be sitting in the water, by all means just seal the wood with a wood sealer or a coat or two of epoxy and paint it. We won’t beat you.

I think for some, fiberglassing is simply intimidating so that keeps them from doing it. But, once you watch the DVD of Allyn fiberglassing various boats in the Glen-L shop, you’ll have the confidence you need to do it yourself. Seeing someone else actually doing it really makes the process seem less of a challenge.

We offer Fiberglass Kits for most of our wood designs. These kits provide the epoxy, hardener and cloth to cover the bottom, sides and transom of the Glen-L boat you are building. Plus, you get a sampling of some application tools such as squeegees, foam rollers & disposable brushes. Just click on the kit name or item number for a listing of the specific contents.

You’ll notice that for most designs we show three fiberglass kits: One contains Glen-L Poxy-Shield epoxy resin and we just call it “Fiberglass Kit”. The other two kits contain either System Three General Purpose or their Silver Tip resins. The General Purpose resin is very comparable to our Poxy-Shield, but we offer both as some of our clients have used the System Three products before and are used to them. The Silver Tip is a top of the line epoxy that is non-blush. With the other epoxies, once the epoxy cures it emits what is called an “amine blush”. This material needs to be removed with denatured alcohol (shellac thinner), lacquer thinner or acetone or even water prior to sanding. A no-blush epoxy is better to use if you are trying to achieve a natural wood finish.

If you are striving for a natural wood finish, make sure that the weave of the cloth is completely filled with resin. It usually takes 3 or 4 coats to accomplish, but don’t get hung up on how many coats-just make sure you can no longer see the weave of the cloth. That will make a huge difference and as many can attest, it’s tough to go back and re-do it if you don’t do it right the first time!

So there you have it, a quick primer on fiberglass. I highly recommend our DVD though, because nothing compares to actually seeing it done. If you have questions, you can email or call us or visit the Boatbuilder Forum because your question has probably already been discussed.

GLEN-L WORD OF THE WEEK:

WATERLINE LENGTH - Length of the boat at the designed waterline.

Significance:
One of the factors used to determine the speed potential of a displacement boat. The longer, the greater the speed potential. The overall length is irrelevant; overhangs fore and aft do not increase “hull speed” potential.

Build Your Dream Boat #20

Are you concerned with finding the correct type and quality of plywood to build your boat? Today’s article by Ken Hankinson should clear up some of your questions. Enjoy…

CHOOSING PLYWOOD FOR BOAT USE
By Ken Hankinson, Naval Architect (written in 1987 for Trailerboats Magazine)

Among the several factors concerning the proper selection of plywood to use in boat work may be the strength and durability required of a panel; bending characteristics and limitations if a panel will be used for other than flat surfaces; how the panel will perform when exposed to such elements as the sun, weather, and moisture; a panel’s ability to maintain sound surface qualities for receiving finishes and sheathings such as fiberglass; its workability, quality, cost, and size required; and finally what may be available. As you can see, choosing a panel to use for your boat can be more involved than simply going down to your local lumberyard and grabbing any panel that may be on sale.

Yet there seems to be a mystique about what sorts of plywood are suitable for boat work, as well as misconceptions; in short, people are often misinformed. For example, it’s a commonly held belief that only “marine” plywood is suitable for boats.  Is this true? And if so, just what is “marine” plywood?

In fact, there are really only two broad classifications for plywood; interior plywood, which is largely made with non-waterproof glues, and exterior plywood, which is made from waterproof glues. All other grading, regardless of the type of wood used in the panel, its construction, wood grain orientation, etc., are subordinate to these two basic classes.

Since interior-grade plywood (labeled as “INT”) may not be made with waterproof glues, such panels should obviously not be used where constant weather or moisture exposure is a factor. Put more firmly, interior-grade plywood has no place in any boat where structural integrity is critical. Exterior-grade plywood (labeled as “EXT”), however, will retain its glue bond and structural integrity with repeated exposure to wetting and drying cycles. But was about “marine” plywood?

Marine-grade plywood (labeled as “MAR”) is actually a special type of exterior plywood since the glues used in making both exterior-grade and marine-grade panels are waterproof and probably the same.  Both grades (EXT and MAR) will survive being boiled in water for several hours with de-lamination or failure of the glue line, which makes both suitable for exposed use in boats. But what’s the difference between the two and why would you choose one over the other, especially when marine-grade plywood is more costly?

Primarily your choice has to do with the soundness and quality of the inner and outer veneers, and how you will use the panel. For example, plywood almost always is made up of an odd number of veneer layers (3, 5, 7, etc.) for the simple reason that the outer veneers should both run in the same direction. However, the inner cores in the exterior-grade panel need not be the same quality or even the same species as the outer plies.  Gaps, voids, knotholes, and other defects within the inner cores are quite acceptable under domestic grading standards for exterior-grade panels.

With marine-grade panels, however, the inner cores are much higher quality than those of exterior-grade panels, being free of voids and gaps (at least in theory according to the standards), and consisting of inner plies of the same species as the outer veneers (unless stated otherwise which is unusual). If the full length inner plies are not full width, they are jointed for a tight fit. In other words, the inner cores of the marine-grade panel are solid and free of voids. In addition, outer plies of a marine-grade panel tend to be of better quality generally, even if they are rated the same quality as exterior-grade panels. 

What bearing does the quality of the veneers have to do with your plywood selection? If a panel will be in basically a flat orientation with minimal impact loads perpendicular to the face, an exterior-grade panel will usually suffice.  However, where the panel must be bent to conform to curves, and the panel may be subjected to impact loads, such as occur on the planking of a boat especially in the forward bottom areas of the hull, then the marine-grade panel is highly advisable. The reason is simple; if an exterior-grade panel containing voids is used, it is likely to fail in such an application, and often when it is being installed even before ever being exposed to use.

Keep in mind that marine-grade planking is not necessarily mandatory for ALL planking applications in plywood boats, or intended for light-duty use where impact strength is not as critical. Similarly, exterior-grade plywood can usually suffice for bulkheads, cabin sides, and decks on just about any boat, although the marine-grade panel is always superior and denotes a higher standard of quality.

In addition to inner veneer quality, face veneers are also graded and used to denote the quality of a panel, usually by a double letter designation such as “A-A” or “A-B”.  And “A” face designates an outer layer free of voids or defects, and if veneers are joined on the surface, such joints will be firm and tight. A “B” face (the lowest rating for a marine-grade panel) is similar, but can have certain voids and defects of a limited size which have been factory-plugged or repaired, and the surface need not be quite as smooth. A “C” face (the lowest rating for an exterior-grade panel) may contain open voids and other defects which are not allowed in a marine-grade panel, and the surfaces need not be sanded (*).

Exterior-grade plywood is commonly available in face veneer designations of “A-A”, “A-B”, and “A-C”, while marine-grade plywood is either “A-A” or “A-B”. Which should you use? A panel with a “C” face having surface voids, open knotholes, and other defects will be suspect regarding durability, and appearance will be poor if this face is exposed. Therefore, where surface quality is important, and for a panel that will be exposed to the elements, use an “A” or “B” quality face, especially for planking.

Quality aside, plywood can be domestic or foreign-made, from several types of wood, with veneers that are usually either plain (flat) sliced, or rotary sliced (around the circumference of the log) which is most common. Plywood with Douglas-fir face and core veneers is commonly available in the U.S. and Canada, and well suited to boat use because of its good strength properties and satisfactory durability. Such plywood is usually grade-stamped in the U.S. along the edge to show that it meets with voluntary grade standards for member mills of the American Plywood Association.

Grading standards of imported panels, however, can vary substantially. In fact, some countries making plywood have no standards and thus no grade-stamp; these panels are best avoided. Other countries, especially in Europe, have grading standards which equal or exceed those of the U.S. These panels tend to be superior both in construction and material quality, and cost more as a result.

Imported plywood is commonly made from the various mahoganies (e.g. luan, meranti, khaya, utile, sapele, okoume/gaboon) from such places as the Philippines, Central America, and Africa, in addition to teak plywood from the Orient. Where a natural wood grain appearance is desired, these panels are often used.

The standard domestic panel is usually 4′ x 8′ in size.  However, imported panels are designated in metric dimensions which are similar to our 4′ x 8′ module, but not exactly, and with thicknesses listed in millimeters. Longer panels beyond about 10′ (either domestic or imported) are usually made with factory-made scarf joints which have proven to be quite sound.
 
Obtaining suitable plywood for boat work can be difficult, especially if you are remote from major boating centers. While most lumberyards stock the lower grades of exterior plywood used in standard shore side construction, finding panels with “A” or “B” faces is more difficult, especially in marine-grade. However, it is common for lumberyards to “special order” such material, if at a premium. If this doesn’t work, let your fingers do the walking through the phone book looking for plywood wholesalers who may refer you to retail sources, or check with local cabinet makers who often have access to better grades of plywood than found at the retail level, and who may be willing to serve you.

(*) While sheathing plywood such as “CDX” are often thought of as “exterior” plywood. They are not rated for constant direct water or weather exposure and should not be used in boats.

Glen-L Word of the Week:

BOARD FOOT

A lumber measurement. One board foot = 1″ X 12″ X 12″. A piece of lumber 2″ X 12″ X 12″ = 2 board feet. When width and thickness are specified, lumber may be called out as linear feet, i.e., 1″ X 6″ X 24 linear feet. Linear feet is used when the lumber will be cut into various lengths, as opposed to a piece 1″ X 6″ x 24′ which would be a single piece of wood.

Wondering where to get the lumber and plywood to build your boat? See our List of Lumber Suppliers by State (outside the US also) of suppliers of wood suitable for boat building. We have a Bill of Materials listed online for each boat that we offer and by using this list of suppliers, you can estimate the cost to build your boat.

Build Your Dream Boat #19

 

Esley Cowman’s Monaco

I have a bit of nostalgia for you today… a while back my husband John and I went to the Annual Antique and Wooden Boat Show at Lake Arrowhead, California. The event is sponsored by the Antique and Classic Boat Society (ACBS). We enjoy seeing all of the old Chris-Craft, Century, Thompson, Garwood and other classic boats, but best of all, Glen-L boats too! This year there was a Tahoe 23 and a Monaco and both fit in perfectly among all of those classics.

Jim Kirkpatrick’s (Capn’ Kirk) Tahoe 23

 

While there, I spoke to a man who said he had a Glen-L “Swish” in his garage that needed to be restored and it got me thinking about this great classic boat with “tail fins” that were so popular in the 1950’s. The Swish, L Dorado and L. Capitan are classic Glen-L designs with these fins. Chris-Craft made a 21′ Continental Landau in 1958 and we saw one at the boat show that was one of my favorites.

Come to find out, Harley Earl was the man responsible for the fin design on cars which he began putting on movie stars cars back in the 1930’s, even though legend has it that his designs were inspired in 1948 by the P-38 war birds of World War II. Regardless, he was quite an innovative designer of the time. Glen-L’s finned boats were designed in 1957.

 

Continental Landau at Arrowhead Boat Show

A while back we received an awesome photo of a Swish that our client Fred Jones built back in the late 50’s and which is still in use today at the family cottage in Ontario, Canada. Fred’s son Brad sent the photos to us and as you can see, it ’s gorgeous!

L Dorado towed by Glen’s T-Bird

 One of my favorite photos is from our 1957 catalog cover of an L Dorado being pulled by my father’s Thunderbird from the same era–I still can’t believe MY dad had a T-Bird! But, my very favorite is this picture of my mom and dad in the L Dorado. This one ran in articles in many of the boating magazines of the day that featured this design.

Glen & Vera in the L Dorado

Talk about a classic boat–these “fin boats” are truly classics along the lines of a Cadillac Eldorado (hmmm, sound familiar?).

In fact, I found a really interesting website about tail fin cars in which they state:

“Fins were an ebullient expression of devil may careness, the hoisting of a flag to honor America and a hope of better days ahead. They were splendidly outrageous, impractical and most people loved having them rest on the back ends of their cars. It’s likely if you did a national poll today you’d probably find out that many Americans still feel this way!”

Cadillac “El Dorado”

 

So, do you like the tail fin enough to actually build your own boat with them? I don’t know, but wouldn’t it be cool? Your fin boat would definitely stand out among all the others on the water…

Glen-L Word of the Week: FAIRING -   The process of beveling the stem, chine, sheers, keel, and frames so that the planking will have flat surfaces to glue and fasten to. A “fair” hull is one with no dips or bumps in the longitudinal lines of the hull. Fairness is checked by sighting down the longitudinal lines.

A Tribute to our Armed Forces

I’ve always considered myself patriotic and am a huge supporter of our military. But since John and I have been watching the HBO mini-series “The Pacific”, my respect and awe for our military has grown to the next level.

Not too long ago, I learned about the “Warrior Song” which is an awesome and powerful song. It has some pretty rough lyrics that some might find offensive. But as difficult as the words may be to hear, there is tremendous truth to them.

Our military are trained to be killing machines. That part of a man that is kept under control while a civilian must be unleashed during war so he can survive. The ultimate sacrifice of course, is the loss of life on the battlefield, but the sacrifice of unleashing that “devil within” is something I’d not thought of before.

“The Pacific” takes place during World War II and follows the Marines through all the battles of Guadalcanal to Okinawa. There are several Marines that are profiled in the series. There is one young man, Eugene Sldege, who wanted to join the Marines along with his best friend Phillips. He was passionate about serving his country. But, his father who is a doctor failed him on his physical exam because of a heart murmur.

I don’t think he really had a heart murmur and finally got his father to give in and let him pass. When he arrives in the theater of the Pacific, he has a brief meeting with his friend who is on his way home after the battle of Guadalcanal. While standing on the beach, Sledge asks Phillips, “What’s it like?” and he replies, “You can never imagine”.

Sledge is about to find out what that means. The Marines land at the beach at Peleliu and they are under fire while crawling over the multitude of dead bodies of their fellow Marines to get off the beach. It was horrendous. At one point the look on his face seemed to say, “what the hell was I thinking?” At the end of the day after dark and with a dead-pan expression, he says to his comrade, “we have to do this again tomorrow”. And of course, the next day and the next and so on…

He quickly learns the randomness of who lives and who dies. This really stands out in this series as well as it did in “Band of Brothers”. The reality that one guy is killed, while his buddy next to him keeps on going. There’s no rhyme or reason, it just is.

Eugene Sledge wrote that those who made it home were “fugitives from the law of averages”.

So, why am I writing this on a blog dedicated to building boats? Because May 31 is Memorial Day. This is the time that we remember those who have fought for our freedom and to keep our country safe as well as the freedom and safety of other countries. They gave all so that we don’t have to. Their sacrifice gives us freedom and yes, even the freedom to build boats.

My father Glen, served in World War II on Okinawa. He was in the Army Air Corps and although he didn’t see action like those of the Marines in “The Pacific”, he had friends who did. There aren’t many men left who served in World War II—we’re losing this “greatest generation” much too quickly.

I think it’s only fitting that we do a little something to honor our heros. So, during the week of May 24 through May 31, we will be donating a portion of all sales made through the Glen-L online store to The Wounded Warrior Project.

The goal of the Wounded Warrior Project is to provide the necessary resources for our current generation of wounded veterans to be the most well-adjusted, productive, and successful generation of veterans this country has ever known.

Thank you to all of you reading this who have served in the military, whether in the US or foreign countries. We salute you, we honor you and we truly appreciate you…

Build Your Dream Boat #18

Continuing the boat building dream #18…

This week’s post is specifically for those of you who are still trying to decide if building a boat is right for you or if you can really do it. This article was written by Naval Architect, Ken Hankinson back in 1985 for publication in Trailerboats Magazine but is just as relevant today. Enjoy and let me know if you have any questions…

DID YOU KNOW YOU COULD BUILD YOUR OWN BOAT?
By Ken Hankinson, Naval Architect

People build all sorts of things. Some build toys or assemble clocks, while the more ambitious have been known to build houses, put together cars from parts and pieces, or even make an airplane that can really fly. Yet when it comes to recalling someone who built his own boat, we’re often reminded of the proverbial fellow who built a boat in his basement and couldn’t get it out the door. In short, the amateur boatbuilder is often looked upon as some kind of “nut”.
The fact of the matter is that literally thousands of these “nuts” DO attempt building their own boats each and every year. And contrary to the popular boating press which tends to elevate boatbuilding to a level of technical sophistication well above the abilities of mere mortals, most of these builders DO succeed.

How do I know? Well, I’ve gotten into the habit of eating on a regular basis over the last 20+ years, and it’s these assorted “nuts” who have made it all possible. I’m what’s known as a “small craft designer”, and providing the “stuff” which makes the dreams of amateur boatbuilders come true is my game.

You may well ask, what’s so appealing about building your own boat? The obvious answers, such as saving money (which we’ll discuss shortly), and getting a boat the way you want it, come readily to mind. But there are less visible aspects which I’ll point out that you may find intriguing.

For example, let’s take the issue of personal freedom and self-expression. Building your own boat is one of the few remaining realms which has not been choked and stifled with red tape and bureaucracy. Building your own boat does not require a building permit, a license, any “approvals”, or inspections as is mandated in other pursuits of comparable magnitude. The amateur boatbuilder is largely left to his own devices without interference. Indeed, building your own boat is an act of self-reliance, individual initiative, and a proclamation of your liberty. In short, it’s downright AMERICAN!

But don’t think that you have to be a “rugged individualist” in order to successfully build your own boat. There are more important qualities. For instance, I think the MOST important personality trait is simple perseverance, or what some call “stick-to-it-iveness”. If you’re the type of person who gives up easily, who is impatient, or flits about from project to project but never completes one, then building your own boat may not be for you. If you’re not sure about these qualities in yourself, the best advice is to start small first and see how it goes.

While we’re talking about personalities, I’ve noticed over the years that a certain type of person usually does well at building his own boat. These are the “scroungers”, the ones who poke around at garage sales, go to “swap meets”, go “bird-dogging” for the bargains, and let their fingers do plenty of walking through the yellow pages. They’re the builders who have planned their projects carefully and know well ahead what they want and need. They’re also the builders who save a bundle as a result.

Yet, if saving money is the ONLY reason you can think of to build a boat, this could be your downfall. While saving money IS certainly important to most, and may help you obtain what you otherwise could not afford, I think that what I call the “therapeutic” aspects are often just as important. For example, boatbuilding is an act of creation, an act of doing something with your hands and your mind, resulting in something tangible and useful. The sense of accomplishment and personal satisfaction of building your own boat is second to none. In fact over the years I have seen countless amateurs who have become “hooked” on boatbuilding as a result of these “therapeutic” qualities. While many started their first project primarily to save money, it’s amazing how many have turned around and sold their first, and immediately turn out a second, third, or more. It’s a great hobby and one an entire family can get involved with.

You may be saying to yourself at this point, it all sounds great, and sure, it’s probably rewarding and all that, but what about skill and ability? Doesn’t it take more than the ability to walk and chew gum at the same time? Well, this might surprise you, but I think that skill and ability are secondary, and here’s one example why I feel this way. I have seen boats built SUCCESSFULLY by handicapped people in wheelchairs, those without all their limbs (including a missing arm or hand), and even by blind people; that’s the truth!

Assuming you start out your project with design products or services aimed specifically at the amateur, I don’t think there’s much need for higher skills such as those once required in the ancient past to build boats. Modern materials and methods now available have put boatbuilding within the reach of just about anyone. And the few limited skills that you may not have now that may be required in certain types of boats can usually be learned quickly by most. Thus, if you have a reasonable ability to use basic tools, can follow instructions, and feel positive about all we’ve just discussed, there’s nothing to hold you back.

Glen-L Word of the Week:

BREASTHOOK -
A knee which mounts atop the stem to which the sheers attach.