Stripping all the chrome. One of the single most important steps in saving money on a paint job is to strip your Mustang as much as possible yourself. This means taking off anything and everything that won't be painted. The more you take off the less the painter has to mask around. Masking not only takes their time (which costs you money) but it also results in areas that simply can't get a full coat of paint. If you take everything off, then the painters can simply scuff and spray, which will give you better and more consistent coverage. When spraying your house, it is a good rule of thumb to spray in the direction of the grain of the material. So if you have siding that runs horizontal, you want to spray in a horizontal style. Also, when you go to spray, the gun should be approximately 12" from the material that you are spraying. Do not pull the handle to spray with your hand still. This will spray a lot of paint in one spot causing it to drip. So have your hand moving when you go to depress the handle. This will give you an even look to your paint. OK, let's get started. Step one...supplies. You need a flat brush, a fan, a small detail brush and a couple of Filberts. A filbert is a rounded edge brush that lets you maneuver the paint easily without going outside the edges. Ultimately buy brushes that you like though, and make them work. Fans allow you to blend, for example. I use fans a lot and it's how I graduate color throughout my images. Everything I paint is by hand....no airbrushing or assistants. I want it to be an expression of me and nobody else. You also need an oil painting medium to mix with the oil paint to make it more fluid, and to speed or slow the drying process. Whichever you prefer. Go to the art store and don't be afraid to ask for help....they'll love helping you! A medium is merely an additive liquid which increases gloss, makes it flow easily, preserves the finish over time, keeps it from yellowing. I personally love Galkyd and Galkyd Lite. If that isn't available, buy a medium that looks like liquid amber and is kind of thick. Don't buy watery looking mediums....too hard to work with.
You'll need a large compressor, not just the typical 20 gallon variety most of us have. This is a 60 gallon, vertical compressor with typically a 5+ hp motor. Then you'll need a decent paint gun (possibly 2; one for primer and one for color) which again is an expense. Then there's the question of where you'll paint the car. Renting a paint booth is best, but can be expensive and hard to find. You can always seal up your garage or shoot out in the wetted down driveway, but you'll inevitably get dirt and moisture into the paint. Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine consists of powdered whiting and clay mixed with an animal-glue binder and a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but can be easily washed off before redecorating. Plaster. New dry plaster in good condition, which is to be finished with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a few "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat over these areas may be sufficient. Remember, you will need to clean the airless in that same fashion before you return the airless back to the rental company.