Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I'm sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50'. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don't have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100' extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don't want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it's a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I'll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil'ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I'm talking about. Don't worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won't hurt it.
Limewash - Made from slaked lime and water, this paint is good for porous surfaces such as brickwork, render and plaster and gives a chalky finish. It is available from specialist companies.
Definitely good inside the house is a new vinyl primer-sealer to be used as a base coat under any paint. It dries in as little as 30 minutes.
Try before you buy Colour cards are fine for making an initial selection but you will want to see a true paint sample in situ before committing. Tester pots vary in price from £1 to £4. Paint onto a sheet of paper that you can move around the room to enable you to see the colour in different light conditions. The effect varies greatly. The window wall can seem dark while the wall opposite will be flooded with light. And of course there is a dramatic difference between natural and artificial light. Finally paint a patch directly onto the wall to gauge the colour, coverage and the final finish.
PAINT. There are many types of paint available today, some giving different surface finishes, others are designed for a particular application. Choosing the correct paint type may appear to be confusing at first, but once you have projected which theme you would like to paint your house and sorted out which job and what finishes you want, the choice is rather easy.
Ecological Paint. The "organic" paint brands, such as Ecos, which emerged in the late 1980s, heralded a new era of odourless paints, free of solvents and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and paved the way for other companies' environmentally safe formulas. Following European legislation, the first stage in lowering the solvent content in paints and varnishes is set to come into force in 2007.
If you have large holes or cracks in a wall purchase a small can of vinyl repair paste. The reason I prefer it over regular wall Spackle is that after it dries it is much harder and sands easily. You can even use it for minor wood repair in a pinch.