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Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I'm sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50'. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don't have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100' extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don't want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it's a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I'll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil'ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I'm talking about. Don't worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won't hurt it.



The most challenging question and statement a stylist or colorist can receive is: Can you correct this hair color I applied at home? It looks terrible! I personally love doing corrective hair coloring. A lot of hair stylist do not like this area of our field. Be sure your stylist has plenty of experience in this area of hair coloring if you need this service rendered. I really won't go too in depth here about corrective hair coloring, accept that, usually a botched at home color can be corrected with the following: Time at the salon for the correction. Money, as this service can be expensive. Cooperation with, and trust in, the hair stylist's or hair colorist's judgment.



If you are grappling with the problem of choosing a woodwork colour to go with neutral walls, check out Architectural Colours by David Oliver, the founder of Paint & Paper Library. He arranged his off-whites for ceilings, cornices, walls and woodwork in chromatical groups and the concept has been so well received that chromatically arranged colours, such as soft greys, greens and pinks, have been introduced.


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We've devised a simple, full proof way to determine whether you are Light or Deep. Look at your overall complexion, eye and hair color. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lightest and 10 being the deepest, determine where you fit. So, a 1 would be the palest Nordic complexion with light blond hair. A 10 would be the deepest ebony skin tone and dark or black hair. So, for example: most Mediterranean and Middle Easterners have dark eyes and deep skin and are, therefore, Deep. Most Northern Europeans have blonde hair and light eyes and are Light. Where do you fall? Give yourself a number. If you fall anywhere from 1 to 4 then you are a Light. If you are 5 or greater you are on the Deep side.



If you have a timber floor that's not particularly attractive or is made from a patchwork of old and new wood, paint makes the perfect disguise. There are plenty of choices - all the colours from Farrow & Ball are available as floor paint and Nordic Style offers an elegant selection, too.



For localities where such conditions exist, self-cleaning paints should be selected. These paints are usually so designated on the label. Concrete, plaster, and metal surfaces each present special problems in painting. For instance, paint for use on masonry or new plaster must be resistant to dampness and alkalies, and paints used on steel must have rust-inhibitive properties.