With a seasonal approach to my makeup, not only do I save time, but I save money as well. I now wear my right makeup and have a coordinated closet with coordinated clothing. I look taller, healthier and feel more confident. I receive compliments almost everyday what a wonderful experience! The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. Take off the chrome molding around both the windshield and rear window. You can pick up a special tool at your local Mustang shop or by mail order that removes these quickly without scratching paint. Of course your paint is probably not in great shape at the moment, so a large flat screw driver will also do the trick. For some classic cars it makes sense to even remove the windshield, but classic Mustangs have chrome molding that will help cover any slight overspray.
When you plan with split complementary colors, you begin with a single reference color. Next, choose a color from either edge of the complementary color and use it. While the complementary color scheme is a little more obvious, this scheme can fail totally if you just use paler versions of your warm colors. By the same token, picking a a warm undertone for the main contrasting color and combining it with two cool tones will showcase the warm tone. Concrete Floors. Two general types of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and the finish cannot be patched without the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel of the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade where there is no moisture present. Our next step is mixing the oil paint. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Obviously you will need to buy some paint thinner, but the most important product you will need is Penetrol $12. Take a plastic quart cup that you will be painting out of and fill it up about three quarters with paint. Now mix in a couple of tablespoons of Penetrol and the slightest amount of thinner. Mix it up with a stick real good and you are ready to go. Why Penetrol? This product is the key to a fantastic looking job. Penetrol will not only smooth out the finish it will extend the time (usually about 20 minutes) before the paint starts to get sticky. This will allow you to apply a glass like finish and eliminate brush marks. We are going to apply two coats here as well so don't glob on the paint. When you are painting the door frames get used to the paint and watch your drips. After about ten minutes or so you will get used to how the paint flows and how damn good your finish looks. Allow to dry overnight before apply second coat. Tip: after you apply the second coat remove the tape and don't allow to dry first. You will get a little paint on your hands from the tape, but deal with it. By removing the tape now you will ensure crisp lines. In some case when you allow the second coat to dry you will pull a bit of the oil paint off. It is not common, but in my opinion why take the chance. After the siding of your home is painted you can now start on painting the trim. There are a couple different ways you can go about painting the trim of your house. The first way is to mask off all of the trim so that you can merely spray the trim color on to your house, and the second way is to roll the trim by hand. If you are the only person painting the house I would recommend rolling the trim by hand. The reason being is because it takes a long time to mask off all of the trim on your home compared to just rolling the face of the trim boards. If you have multiple people, it would be faster to have the helpers mask everything off while you start spraying the trim color.