Now that you have the airless paint sprayer and your extension ladders it's time to paint your home. I would highly recommend painting the siding of your home first before painting the trim. The reason being is so you can just spray the house as fast as you can without worrying about painting a section of trim that you already painted. So paint the siding and soffit first followed by painting the trim. Painting the siding using an airless paint sprayer should go pretty fast. The term paint is used to include paints, varnishes, enamels, shellacs, lacquers, and stains. • Paints are composed of mineral pigments, organic vehicles, and a variety of thinners all combined. • Varnishes are resins dissolved in organic thinners. • Enamels are pigmented varnishes. • Shellac is lac gum dissolved in alcohol. • Lacquers may be both pigmented or clear - the liquid portion usually is treated nitrocellulose dissolve in thinners. • Stains may be pigmented oil or a penetrating type. Many of these materials, such as paints, varnishes, and lacquers, are formulated for specific purposes: • Outside house paints and exterior varnishes are intended to give good service when exposed to weathering • Interior wall paints are formulated to give excellent coverage and good wash-ability. • Floor enamels are made to withstand abrasion. • Lacquers are formulated for rapid drying. • There are also formulas which provide extra self-cleaning, fume- resisting, waterproofing, hardening, flexibility, mildew-resisting, resistance to fading, and breathing qualities. And, its never been more important to know your colors. Why? Because color is back in a big way! Just look at the vast variety of colors in the department stores.
How Much Paint You Really Need. How much paint you will need to satisfactorily complete a paint project is determined by 2 factors. The first, paint coverage, is a familiar concept to most people. It simply concerns the square footage of surface area to be painted, and "paint coverage calculators" abound on the web. However, the second concept, paint color coverage, has a much more pronounced effect on how much paint will be needed and the cost of paint projects. Unfortunately, paint color coverage is a novel concept to many painters and, in fact, is poorly understood even by many professionals. Knowing the secrets of paint color coverage will allow you to reduce the number coats you have to apply and minimize how much paint you have to buy. The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. Proper brush technique: When "cutting in" with a paint brush you should dip the brush in paint and tap the sides of the bucket on each side of the brush, leaving a good amount on the brush so you are able to minimize the times you will need to dip/load the brush. Next, take the brush and make a one foot to two foot line down the wall about an inch or two away from the trim or surface you are going to paint up next to, this is much like taking a knife full of butter and spreading it across an entire slice of bread. After, spreading the paint over the section, go back and even the paint out evenly across the section and cut up next to the trim with the brush. You want to paint up next to the trim or surfaced to be cut-in with the paint brush after you have released most of the paint on the wall, it is easier to cut in with the tips of the brush exposed and not loaded with a lot of paint. When you plan with split complementary colors, you begin with a single reference color. Next, choose a color from either edge of the complementary color and use it. While the complementary color scheme is a little more obvious, this scheme can fail totally if you just use paler versions of your warm colors. By the same token, picking a a warm undertone for the main contrasting color and combining it with two cool tones will showcase the warm tone.