THE BRUSHWORK. Depending on the art movement and personal peculiarities of the artist, the brushwork can range from delicate and almost invisible to rough and plastic.
Semi-gloss paints are very similar to gloss plaints except it has lesser sheen. Semi-gloss is also suitable for rooms with high humidity (best used for children's room) and can be used for trim works and casings. These paints ensure maximum durability.
Cold water paints of the casein type may be applied either directly to a plastered surface, or the surface may be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the product being given preference in case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil in the binder, they should ordinarily be applied only to plaster which has dried thoroughly.
Materials and their application, every paint manufacturers paint will vary. If you are freshening up old walls and painting back to the existing color, the product doesn't have to be high end or have good coverage. If you need to paint a dark color over light color or light color over dark, you may want to consider purchasing a top quality paint to avoid multiple coats. I suggest Valspar, Pittsburgh or Benjamin Moore top of the line wall paint. These brands work well for straight out of the bucket use and are application friendly. Sherwin Williams is not my first choice because the coverage is poor and you will have to apply multiple coats but, it does apply, fluently. If you find a product does not apply well, maybe it is to heavy and/or sagging on the wall, you may need to thin the paint with a little water, this will reduce the coverage but make the paint flow better and lay down nicer on the surface. I do recommend latex paints for all applications, these days a good high end latex is as good as oil paint and your tools clean up much easier, it will also be less harsh on the respiratory system. The only situation I recommend oil paint, is as a primer/stain blocker over stains that "bleed" through the paint. You can get a stain blocking oil primer in a convenient spray can and spot prime any trouble areas before painting and in the case you need to prime all of the wall due to smoke or water damage, I recommend getting it in gallons and rolling it on where the stains are present. Don't forget proper ventilation and/or a respirator when using the oil based primers!
On the other hand, a color chosen one or more shades lighter than your existing color will be more damaging because of the use of a lifting agent involved. You see, when going lighter with your hair color, there is always a lifting process used to make your natural color many shades lighter. Such as your hair stylist determines, to have the proper out come of the final hair color. The color desired is actually being deposited in the last fifteen to thirty five minutes of the process, depending on the color line being used. Thus, the hair can become a bit dryer from the lighter hair coloring process. We have color care shampoos and conditioners to solve the drying affect of the hair color. The result, beautiful hair.
We've devised a simple, full proof way to determine whether you are Light or Deep. Look at your overall complexion, eye and hair color. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lightest and 10 being the deepest, determine where you fit. So, a 1 would be the palest Nordic complexion with light blond hair. A 10 would be the deepest ebony skin tone and dark or black hair. So, for example: most Mediterranean and Middle Easterners have dark eyes and deep skin and are, therefore, Deep. Most Northern Europeans have blonde hair and light eyes and are Light. Where do you fall? Give yourself a number. If you fall anywhere from 1 to 4 then you are a Light. If you are 5 or greater you are on the Deep side.
Satin or silk - Water-based vinyl or acrylic paint for walls in high-wear areas, such as hallways and kitchens. A satin finish will be slightly shinier than silk.